Toilet Repair & Installation
Stop a toilet from running, rocking or clogging, or set a new one.
A drip that wastes water all night, a handle that spins without effect or a supply line weeping into a cabinet. Most faucet fixes are quick when the right part is on the truck. A tap that refuses to close, or a puddle in the vanity, gets stopped at the angle stop first and reported by phone second.
Close the shutoff valves under the sink, or the main valve if they stick, then call.
Dry the area, then run water and watch. A drip at the spout is a faucet problem. Water at the base of the handle is a cartridge or packing problem. Moisture below the sink can trace back to a supply line, the trap or a drain joint.
Tighten loose nuts by hand or lightly with a wrench. Do not over-tighten plastic fittings, which crack.
Modern faucets use cartridges that wear with time. Replacing the cartridge restores the seal without replacing the whole faucet. Compression faucets use rubber washers and seats.
A weak stream is often the aerator at the tip, packed with mineral scale. Unscrew it and soak it in vinegar. Hard water makes this a regular task.
An outdoor hose bib that was left connected to a hose in the fall can split in a freeze and leak inside the wall. Check for water spraying when you turn it on in spring.
A frost-free spigot has a long stem that places the valve inside the heated house. It still needs the hose off in winter, because trapped water can freeze inside the barrel.
Small parts cost little. These items change the total.
Ask whether the quote includes new supply lines and shutoffs.
Old shutoff valves seize and leak when turned. Replacing a stuck valve is routine for a plumber and makes later repairs easy.
Braided supply lines last a number of years. If yours is old, kinked or showing rust at the fittings, replace it before it bursts.
Repair if the body is sound and parts are available. Replace if the finish is flaking, the faucet is loose in the sink or the parts no longer exist.
A new faucet is a good time to update the supply lines and valves. Ask about the warranty on the faucet and the labor.
A basin that empties slowly could have a blockage in the trap or farther along the branch. Pulling the trap and cleaning it is a ten-minute job. If the clog is deeper, a cable or a drain cleaning visit is next.
A gurgling sink can mean a blocked vent. Venting keeps drains flowing, and a bird nest or a snow plug on the roof pipe can cause it.
Stop a toilet from running, rocking or clogging, or set a new one.
Free a stuck disposal, stop a leak under the sink or mount a replacement unit.
Thaw an iced-up line safely, inspect it for splits and reroute or insulate the run that keeps freezing.
A worn cartridge, washer or valve seat. Hard water and age wear them out.
Often yes, with the right part and a shutoff. Find the model number first. A plumber helps if the faucet is old or the parts are scarce.
Check the supply lines, the shutoff valves and the drain trap. Dry them and watch for the drip.
Close the shutoff inside, remove any hose and have the spigot checked. A frost-free model is a good replacement.
Often, if the flow reaches a cabinet floor or the room. Quarter-turn the small valve beneath the sink, or the main, and call. A tired cartridge or a failed stem is the usual culprit.
Close the valve under the sink, or the main if needed, and call. Say what is leaking and where.
Service area centered on Westminster and the nearby Denver north-metro cities.